Lead flashing at the junction between a chimney and a tiled roof

Roof Problems

Damaged Flashing

Flashing is the weatherproofing at the joints of a roof — the strips of lead or the mortar fillets where the covering meets a chimney, wall, valley or vent. These junctions are where two surfaces meet and water concentrates, so flashing is one of the hardest-working and most failure-prone parts of any roof.

What it looks like

The signs below are the ones homeowners most often notice first. Spotting one early makes the problem far easier and cheaper to put right.

Damp patches on the chimney breast or on walls below a roof junction
Lifted, cracked or corroded lead around a chimney or abutment
Cracked or missing mortar in a stepped flashing
Rust staining running down from a flashing detail
Water tracking down a valley rather than draining away

Why it happens

Understanding the cause matters — the right fix depends on it. These are the usual culprits behind damaged flashing.

Thermal movement fatiguing the lead

Lead expands and contracts with every warm and cold cycle. If a run of lead is too long or was poorly clipped, that constant movement eventually cracks it — most often along the chimney back where it works hardest.

Failed mortar pointing

On many homes the flashing is bedded into a mortar joint. Mortar is porous and cracks with age and frost, letting water past the top edge of the lead and behind the flashing.

Poor original installation

Flashing that was undersized, not dressed into the courses correctly, or replaced with mastic as a shortcut will let water in. Sealant "repairs" over lead are a common temporary bodge that fails within a season or two.

Valley blockage and corrosion

Valleys carry a large volume of water off two roof planes. Leaves and debris cause water to back up over the edges, and older metal valleys corrode through at the wettest point.

What to do

  1. 1

    Match the damp to the nearest junction

    Internal damp near a chimney breast, a party wall or a valley strongly points to flashing rather than the tiles. Noting the exact position helps a roofer confirm the cause quickly.

  2. 2

    Look for lifted lead or cracked mortar

    From the ground, check whether the lead has pulled away from the wall or the mortar line above it has failed. Rust streaks below a detail are a clear sign the flashing is past its best.

  3. 3

    Avoid DIY sealant fixes

    Smearing mastic over failing lead traps moisture and rarely lasts. It also makes a proper repair messier later. Resist the temptation and get the junction re-dressed correctly.

  4. 4

    Have the flashing re-dressed or replaced

    A roofer will re-dress or renew the lead and re-point the joint so the junction sheds water as intended — the only durable fix for a failed flashing.

When to call a professional

Some situations are worth getting a roofer to look at straight away:

  • Damp is appearing on a chimney breast or internal wall
  • You can see lifted lead or a failed mortar line at a junction
  • A valley is overflowing or shows signs of corrosion
  • A previous sealant repair has failed and is leaking again

Safety first

Chimney and valley flashing sits at the most exposed, awkward parts of a roof. Assessing and re-dressing lead safely needs proper access and leadwork skill — it is not a ladder-top DIY task.

Roofing in your area

Local housing and weather shape how this shows up. Explore roofing by area and find a roofer near you.

Frequently asked questions

Flashing sits exactly where water concentrates and where two materials with different movement meet. That combination of heavy water flow and constant thermal movement wears it out faster than the flat field of tiles around it.

Want a professional to take a look?

Talk it through with a roofing specialist — honest advice, no obligation.

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